Rangamati

Rangamati is the lakeside capital of the Chattogram Hill Tracts, a calm and scenic district wrapped around the enormous Kaptai Lake. Green hills rise on every side, dotted with indigenous villages, Buddhist temples and the occasional resort built out over the water.

Kaptai Lake — created in the 1960s when the Karnaphuli River was dammed for hydroelectricity — is the largest artificial lake in Bangladesh and the centre of life here. Boats are the main way to get around, gliding past submerged tree stumps, floating markets and hillside hamlets to reach spots like Shuvolong Waterfall and the quiet coves beyond.

The district is home to Chakma, Marma, Tanchangya and other indigenous communities, whose temples, weaving and cuisine give Rangamati a character distinct from lowland Bangladesh. The famous Hanging Bridge over an arm of the lake has become the town's symbol.

Rangamati was historically the seat of the Chakma Circle, and the Chakma Raja's palace still stands in the area. The hill tracts have a long, complex history of indigenous self-rule and, more recently, of conflict and a 1997 peace accord.

The construction of the Kaptai Dam in 1962 created the lake but also submerged large areas of farmland and the old Chakma royal capital, displacing many families — a defining event in the region's modern history.

The cool, dry winter from October to March is the most comfortable time, with pleasant weather and calm water ideal for boating.

The monsoon (June to September) fills the lake and makes Shuvolong and other waterfalls at their most powerful, but heavy rain can disrupt boat trips.

Check that the area is open and stable for tourism before travelling, as the hill tracts occasionally have travel advisories.