Nafakhum

Nafakhum is one of the largest and most remote waterfalls in Bangladesh, plunging over rocky steps on the Remakri river in the Thanchi upazila of Bandarban district. The falls tumble for roughly 80 to 100 metres through dense hill forest, with a main cascade of about 25 to 30 metres that roars through a remote valley close to the Myanmar border. Movement in the area is controlled by the army, and a registered local guide is mandatory, lending the trek an expedition-like atmosphere well beyond the usual weekend getaway.

The journey to Nafakhum is part of the experience. Most visitors travel from Bandarban town to Thanchi by Chander Gari in around four to five hours, then walk two to four days through indigenous Mro, Tripura, Bawm and Marma villages. Nights are spent in basic bamboo huts with sleeping mats and simple meals, with porters carrying kit between remote settlements. Some organised tours combine Nafakhum with Boga Lake as a four to six day remote circuit, making it a highlight of any serious hill tracts itinerary.

Because of its location near the international frontier, visits to Nafakhum are tightly regulated. Permits and rules are arranged by the local upazila administration or your tour operator, and these rules change, so they should always be checked before departure. Travelling with an experienced local operator is the standard way to sort paperwork, guides and porters in one go. Mobile signal is patchy and there is no ATM beyond Bandarban town, which makes preparation essential.

The best season to visit Nafakhum is from October to March, when the dry weather keeps the trail and river crossings safer. During the monsoon the same rivers and slippery tracks that make the falls spectacular become genuinely dangerous. A typical visit involves two to three nights on the trail, with extra days added if you are linking the waterfall with Boga Lake. Visitors should bring a sleeping bag, sturdy boots, rain protection, basic first aid and enough cash for the entire trip.

Nafakhum takes its name from the Marma language, combining 'Nafa', a local name for the Remakri river, with 'khum', meaning waterfall. The name reflects how closely the indigenous Marma community identity is tied to the rivers and gorges of the Thanchi area. For generations the falls have sat within the traditional lands of the Marma, Mro, Tripura and Bawm peoples, whose villages still line the route in.

The waterfall only became a serious trekking destination as organised adventure travel opened up the remotest parts of the Chattogram Hill Tracts in recent decades. Its position close to the Myanmar border means that access remains controlled by the army, and permits are arranged through the local upazila administration or registered tour operators. Rules and procedures can change without notice, so conditions on the ground today reflect ongoing security considerations rather than purely tourism management.

October to March is the dry season and the recommended window for the Nafakhum trek. Trails are firmer, river crossings on the Remakri are safer, and the weather is generally clear enough to enjoy the falls and surrounding forest.

During the monsoon the same rivers swell dramatically, making fords hazardous and forest paths slippery. While the waterfall is at its most powerful in these months, the risks for trekkers are significant and most operators do not run trips.

Shoulder months at the start and end of the dry season can be quieter, though conditions vary year to year. Always confirm current ground conditions with your operator and the upazila administration before setting out from Thanchi.